By Mark McAfee, Sarah Smith, Dr Joseph Heckman, and Kelsey Barefoot
Family dairy farms are struggling, but raw milk can provide a sustainable path forward for farmers willing to learn new practices and skills. Farmers have been denied fair markets for their dairy products for over a century. All the efforts to brand the milk and produce value-added products such as cream, butter, and kefir are happening after products leave the farm; thus, the creameries and processing plants are making that additional money. The creameries process, brand, label and collect the profits while the farmer remains faceless and without recourse to affect the amount they earn for their raw product.
According to the Organic Trade Association, organic dairy is a significant portion of the $60 billion market for USDA Certified Organic. Customers prefer organic dairy products for better animal welfare and to avoid synthetic inputs. According to many sources, including the Sustainable Agriculture Research Journal, the ecological practice of feeding ruminants on pasture enriches soils and the nutritional quality of organic foods. Unfortunately, this wonderful whole-food organic milk is often highly processed and ultra-pasteurized. Well-informed customers are turning away from pasteurized milk and are seeking to add more wholesome, unprocessed foods to their diets. Going raw is a great opportunity for small organic and other pasture-based dairy farms to produce fresh, unprocessed whole milk.
For conventional and organic dairy, low milk prices combined with mega-dairies taking over the markets contribute to the loss of dairy farms at a distressing rate. In 1968, there were 71,000 dairies in the state of Wisconsin. Since then, dairies have been failing year after year. 455 Wisconsin dairies closed in 2023, and today, there are only 5,500 remaining. The same thing is happening across the USA. There were 155,339 dairies in 1992, but by 2022, the number had fallen to 27,932. Currently, nearly four dairies fail every day in the United States.
Dairy farmers are told that going big is the only way to survive. Massive herds dominate the marketplace, while smaller family farms fall like dominoes. Failed farms are the deaths of dreams and livelihoods for too many families. Conventional dairy farmers have one of the highest suicide rates. Yet, producing raw milk provides a sustainable pathway for farmers to earn more for their efforts because they can focus on producing raw milk with high production standards.
Instead of dairy farms scraping by year after year, with failure looming like a dark cloud at every turn, these farms can flourish in a growing marketplace with excellent prospects for long-term success by moving into raw milk production. Instead of just surviving, these farms can thrive. This isn’t a daydream; it’s raw milk and is a real solution. High-quality raw milk in the USA averages $10 to $20 per gallon to the farmer.
The Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) trains farmers to produce low-risk raw milk. From our internal polling of dozens of raw milk dairies in the USA and Canada, farmers have reported that raw milk demand has dramatically increased over the last few years. Many small-scale family farms are selling out and have a waiting list of potential customers. On a larger scale, RAW Farm in California, the largest raw milk dairy in the world, reported 50% growth each year for the past two years.
Why Demand for Raw Milk is Growing
A few different factors are driving this growth. People seek natural, time-tested ways to improve their health and fertility. Like breastmilk, raw milk helps build robust immune systems. At least 80% of the human immune system is in the gut microbiome. Raw milk is filled with bioactive proteins and living elements, perfectly designed to build an immune system that did not exist before birth. This has been shown in extensive epidemiological studies in Europe. For instance, in the PASTURE study of nearly 1,000 infants, raw milk consumption was associated with lower rates of ear infections, fevers, and respiratory infections. The GABRIELA study of over 8,000 children found that raw milk consumption is correlated with lower rates of asthma and allergies. It has been demonstrated that allergy protection ceases when milk is heated to 149 °F, the same temperature at which the whey proteins are denatured. Raw whey proteins are likely responsible for raw milk’s beneficial effects on allergies, asthma, and inflammation.
Additionally, many “lactose intolerant” consumers can consume raw milk without problems. The diverse bacteria in raw milk protect against lactose intolerance, so even those without the genetic mutation (lactase persistence gene) can consume raw milk. The bacteria found naturally in raw milk assists in the production of lactase enzymes in the gut. This is why populations in places such as Africa and Mongolia, who do not have the lactase persistence gene, can nonetheless consume raw milk as a staple of their diets.
Another reason that people are choosing raw milk is for local food security. After experiencing food insecurity during COVID-19, when essential food items were often unavailable in stores, many sought local and homestead foods. People concerned about animal welfare often choose raw milk to ensure that their food is coming from smaller farms that make animal health and well-being top priorities.
Last but not least, raw milk is delicious and many consumers would choose it over pasteurized milk if it were available.
Increasing Access to Raw Milk
Raw milk has been legal in many states, such as Washington, California, Pennsylvania, and Utah, for a long time. Recently, there has been a wave of increased raw milk legalization in places where it was difficult to obtain. For instance, in the last few years, legal barriers to raw milk have been removed in Iowa, North Dakota, Montana, Texas, Georgia, Idaho, New Mexico, and Wyoming.
Raw milk farmers can thrive in this burgeoning market. Pasteurization was a 19th-century solution to the man-made problem of dirty milk produced from unhealthy animals in filthy conditions. It answered the question of how to commercialize dirty milk rather than spending the time and energy it would take to produce clean milk from healthy cows. It is critical to recognize that farmers should only provide raw milk if specialized standards and practices are used to produce it for direct human consumption.
Farms across the US show that raw milk is a viable pathway to sustainability. Depending on local regulations, some farms operate through on-farm sales; others operate as herdshares and raw milk is sold in retail stores in some states. For instance, The Family Cow Dairy in Pennsylvania is thriving, with raw milk being provided alongside meats, cheeses, eggs, and various other farm-grown goods. They operate an on-farm store and dozens of food delivery drop points all over Pennsylvania.
Creambrook Farm in Virginia is another successful raw milk dairy, operating as a herdshare with weekly deliveries to dozens of drop points across Virginia. In a herdshare, customers buy into the herd and pay ongoing fees for the board, feed, and care of the animals. The herdshare members are then entitled to a portion of the raw milk from the herd. Eleven states allow raw milk sales in retail stores; RAW Farm in California is the world’s largest raw milk dairy, selling milk, kefir, and cheeses at hundreds of stores across California.
RAWMI Method for Low-Risk Raw Milk
RAWMI was formed in 2011. Over the last 13 years, RAWMI has mentored farmers worldwide, including the USA, Canada, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, South Africa, India, Argentina, and Lebanon. Thousands of farmers have been exposed to RAWMI’s standards, hundreds have attended our training workshops, and over 40 farmers have completed our intensive one-on-one mentoring process.
The RAWMI Method is a three-pronged approach for the production of safe raw milk, which consists of 1) farmer training and mentoring, 2) a risk management plan for the unique conditions on each farm, and 3) stringent yet achievable bacterial test standards for coliforms and Standard Plate Count (SPC). Studies have shown that the RAWMI Method works. When farmers are well-trained, use careful production practices to manage the risks on their farms, and perform ongoing bacterial testing of their milk, they can produce ultra-low-risk raw milk.
Low-Risk Raw Milk is Achievable
The table below contrasts pathogen test data from pre-pasteurized vs. raw milk intended for direct human consumption. As illustrated in the table, pathogen testing of pre-pasteurized milk samples has detected pathogens in up to 33% of samples. In contrast, there were zero pathogens detected in thousands of milk samples from raw milk carefully produced for direct human consumption. It is clear from this test data that pre-pasteurized milk is categorically different from raw milk intended for direct human consumption.
Data courtesy British Columbia Herdshare Association
Additionally, two peer-reviewed studies have shown that the RAWMI Method works well to produce low-risk raw milk. Researchers in Canada found that the rate of raw milk-related outbreaks is decreasing while the consumption of raw milk is increasing. The authors concluded, "Controlling for population and consumption growth, the outbreak rate has effectively decreased by 74% since 2005.” The study suggested the improved food safety record results from expanded safety training for raw milk dairy producers.
In another study by European researchers, it was found that raw milk being intentionally produced for human consumption fundamentally differs from pre-pasteurized milk taken from bulk tanks. It was concluded that "raw milk can be produced with a high level of hygiene and safety.” This paper further proves that low-risk raw milk is achievable with farmer training, careful production practices, and ongoing testing.
Switching from producing milk intended for pasteurization to raw milk intended for direct human consumption requires a considerable shift in mindset and practices. The path to raw milk success can be a struggle at first and requires investment in personal development. Farmers have to go back to the basics and learn how to milk cows all over again. Under the FDA’s Pasteurized Milk Ordinance, there is minimal mention of milk pathogens and no test for pathogens in the pasteurization process. (Pasteurization is intended to kill off the pathogens).
In raw milk production, the possibility of pathogens must first be on the farmer’s mind. Raw milk farmers serve people directly who can get sick from improperly produced raw milk. The four primary pathogens that can be found in raw milk are E coli 0157:H7, Salmonella spp., Campylobacter spp., and Listeria monocytogenes. Resulting illnesses can be severe or even fatal.
When farmers are vigilant about risk management, they can establish long-term safety records for ultra-low-risk raw milk. This is critical to milk safety and winning over critics (of which there are many). A guarantee of perfect safety is an impossible standard for any food to achieve. Opponents of raw milk access often imply that pasteurization guarantees safety, but the record shows otherwise. For instance, in 2007, an outbreak of Listeriosis in Massachusetts was associated with pasteurized milk. There were five cases identified and three deaths occurred.
Low-Risk Raw Milk Requires Farmers to Learn New Skills
When raw milk farmers are willing to acknowledge the potential pathogen risks and work diligently to minimize them, their milk can be a low-risk food that provides outstanding nourishment. The practices and standards RAWMI recommends for raw milk differ entirely from those for to-be-pasteurized milk.
Farmers who optimize their practices to reduce the chance of pathogens in the milk can earn a sustainable income of $10-20 per gallon.
Farmers who produce low-risk raw milk must carefully manage the cleanliness and hygiene of the farm from grass to glass. From the health of the herd to diligent udder preparation and stripping, to the cleanliness of the milking parlor, to the specific cleaning processes for the milk line, to ensuring rapid milk chilling, to regularly testing their milk, and everything in between, raw milk farmers must be dedicated to taking their farm management to the next level to ensure that their raw milk is safe to consume. These intentional production practices dramatically reduce the chance of pathogens in raw milk.
Selling raw milk is a niche that connects farmers directly with consumers. Typical dairy farmers are not only financially strapped, but they are also socially alienated. However, by selling directly to consumers, raw milk farmers get to know and appreciate the families who benefit from their milk. Raw milk farmers are paid very well and set their own prices by building their own brands. These trusted local brands attract customers who give deep thanks and even hugs along with their gratitude.
This shift does require new people skills. No more hiding out on the farm behind “no trespassing” signs. As we say at RAWMI, “You don’t sell raw milk. You teach it.” Raw milk farmers need to work hard to develop relationships with their consumers and be prepared to answer many questions.
The demand for raw milk is increasing, and there has never been a better time to be a raw milk farmer. Raw milk presents a unique farmstead product that honors the quality and effort a farmer puts into the product. By selling directly to consumers, raw milk farmers can obtain greater financial rewards for their work, while consumers benefit from the improved flavor and nutrition. It’s a win-win for farmers and consumers! What a blessing and promise for future generations of farmers and health for all people.
Mark McAfee is a former EMS paramedic, owns the world's largest raw milk dairy (RAW Farm in California), and is the Founder and Chairman of the Raw Milk Institute. Sarah Smith has a background in hazards analysis as a former NASA aerospace engineer and is Director and Vice President of the Raw Milk Institute. Joseph Heckman, Ph.D., is a professor of soil science at Rutgers University and is on the Board of Directors for the Raw Milk Institute. Kelsey Barefoot, a former critical care nurse, is on the Board of Directors for the Raw Milk Institute and owns a raw milk micro-dairy in North Carolina.
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